Thread: X100 User Setup Preferences

Well, David, you are certainly fueling my desires - which I am hoping will be met by receiving one of my own in the not too distant future. Being able to read what you, Ray and some of the other fortunate few on here who've already taken delivery and are out using this long awaited camera is a real plus. I also really appreciate reading how thoughts and impressions change as time passes.

Originally Posted by soundimageplus

There has to be a reason for splitting Auto ISO from the ISO selecter. Maybe Fuji think the two things ARE different. The rationale may be that (they think) Auto ISO is for one kind of photographer, whereas ISO selection is used by people who would never want to use Auto. However I think they are wrong with that. I switch between Auto ISO and ISO selection all the time on other cameras depending on what light I'm working with. However its a theory.

I think there's a method to SOME of their madness (like having the ISO stick for each mode rather than stay with the ISO you're using as you switch between modes - most hate this but some seem to like it and I think either Canon or Nikon does it too). But even IF they assume that one type of photographer uses manual ISO and another type uses AUTO, there's STILL no reason to put them on different menus! And if they really thought that and this camera is intended for the more experienced photographer, why include an auto ISO at all? For aperture, the "auto" option is right there at the end of the aperture range, and for shutter speed its the same way. But not for ISO? Nah - that's just silly.

Originally Posted by soundimageplus

Things like the slow start-up and the battery meter, which someone said goes from full to depleted and shows nothing in between

Sorry, that was me - should have ID'd myself...

-Ray

Has anyone figured out the highlight tone.....shadow tone settings? Like what do they do? I am thinking that if one sets the highlight tone to "soft"....it will reduce the clipping....maybe?

R

Rich, wish I could help you out but I've never fooled around with in camera settings much before...so I have another question to ask.

**What I meant to ask about was "Dynamic Range". I'm unclear on this - anyone want to translate for the layperson?


I'm going to start out with jpeg and RAW and see how it goes...and hope to get some learning done today. Now that I have the camera - and finally updated the firmware last night, I hope to actually take and make some photos.

I'm unclear about Dynamic Range. I have it at 100% now..BB...
What is it's effect and does it work in Raw only?

Originally Posted by Ray

The AEL/AFL button settings are pretty standard - on/off toggle or hold for on and then what does it lock - exposure or AF or both...

OK, I set my AFL/AEL button to be what I thought was on for locking exposure...but I never saw any indication as to its being on...and it didn't appear to work. I just went back into "the wrench" menu and now have set it so that the AE-L AE/AF-Lock Mode to "AE & AF On/Off switch" (S) which I think makes it work, as opposed to "AE & AF on when pressing" (P) because now I can see an "EL" lit up on the screen, etc. In addition I set the AE/AF - Lock Button to AE-L. Does this all make sense to those of you who have this camera. I know it's a bunch of acronyms....but I'm trying to be as specific as I can be. Sometimes I don't think I do "camera speak" so well.

Yeah, if you set it for "on/off" its essentially a lock (until the next time you press it). If you set it for "when pressing" then you get focus and/or exposure lock WHILE you're pressing it, but its gone when you take your finger off. Sounds like you're on top of it.

-Ray

Well, that's a relief. I didn't get it the first go 'round, Ray - so thanks for corroboration.

There's been a bit of discussion and confusion about the macro mode and also about using the AEL/AFL button to lock exposure. After playing with it a while, I've taken to using the camera in manual focus mode and setting the AFL/AEL button to "AF lock only". This way, I've separated the focus from the exposure setting (with the exposure set to the half press shutter button position), I've gotten the focus off of the shutter button so I can fire off a few consecutive shots in the same focal plane without the camera having to refocus, AND I've eliminated the need to ever change into macro mode. The camera will focus down to macro levels in manual focus mode using the AEL/AFL button without changing modes. You do have to use the rear screen or the evf to see the object come into focus at very close distances, but it doesn't require using switching to macro mode. So, staying in MF and using the AFL/AEL button to focus eliminates the need to switch to macro mode for close work and allows the most flexibility in focussing - you can use it to AF on every shot, you can use it to AF but not refocus between a set of quick shots in the same basic focal plane, you always have he DOF showing so its a quick and easy way to use the camera for zone focussing when the lighting is right and you have an adequately small aperture. I always like to be able to separate AF from AE and generally have liked being able to get the focus off of the shutter button (I had my EP2 set up in essentially the same way most the time). And you've also got the ability to hit the command control thing to magnify the view and actually use the manual focus ring to fine tune (which I rarely use, but might on close work or in low light).

This may not be everyone's favorite setup, but I've come to like it a lot. The only downside I've found is that the focus box doesn't turn green to verify focus in this mode, so you have to trust the camera a bit more. This can be a bit of an issue in low light or really close work, but you can always just use the manual focus and the magnifier in those situations to fine tune.

-Ray

Originally Posted by Ray

This may not be everyone's favorite setup, but I've come to like it a lot. The only downside I've found is that the focus box doesn't turn green to verify focus in this mode, so you have to trust the camera a bit more. This can be a bit of an issue in low light or really close work, but you can always just use the manual focus and the magnifier in those situations to fine tune.

-Ray

This sounds splendid Ray . . . but it's not my cup of tea, because although it's great for some situations it's not so good for others.

Me - I like the AFL/AEL button to lock exposure only - with the switch option. That way I can take and lock an exposure from a part of the scene I think will do well, then half press the shutter to lock the focus (with the nice green square) then recompose and shoot.

As for close up . . just flip to manual focus, and the AFL/AEL button changes it's function to focusing (whether it should or not is a moot point, but it does) - so, of course, you can focus close with it by pressing that button.

For me this presents a better set of compromises.

all the best