Featured: 'Herons (some BIF) with Nikon V3 and 70-300CX' by The Smoking Camera

Thanks Ray. Always nice to have you chime in. Never realized you're a birder. lol. Which Nikon are using for this? Yeah, sensors getting better for these small rigs, but not quite there yet. Soon, hopefully. Take care and hope to contribute more in the future. Regards, Joe
I've played with both a DF and a D610 - still not sure which us gonna be the keeper. I like the D610 better in good light (the DR in that RX1 / D610 sensor is just soooo sweet), like the Df more in low light and prefer a couple of things in the Df interface and the basic feel of it.

I'll probably never shoot another bird - I just figured if I had a camera with this amazing tracking technology, I should learn how to use it. And seagulls are cooperative practice targets...

-Ray
 
Thanks again Mr Doug, LuckyPenguin, Ray and Luke.
I just want to be clear this setup works well in good light but there will be some noise due to the sensor.
Here's an example from this morning.
Took this shot somewhat toward the sun at ISO 400 of someone picking up breakfast.
Applied noise reduction in LR5, but some remains.
Bon appétit.

p601344458-5.jpg
 
I have always found that my V1, especially when used with the FT-1, (i.e. when used with non dedicated Nikon lens), does blow highlights, sometimes to the point of being beyond recovery …… OK you can adjust the + and - but when you have strong light with shadow and light extremes it is not possible.

On the V1 with FT-1 you also only get spot, single cell focusing mode

BUT the above two considerations should not be applicable to the 70 300mm CX ………….what I am saying is your image above suffers from the extremes of light and shadow because of the strong light
 
I have always found that my V1, especially when used with the FT-1, (i.e. when used with non dedicated Nikon lens), does blow highlights, sometimes to the point of being beyond recovery …… OK you can adjust the + and - but when you have strong light with shadow and light extremes it is not possible.

On the V1 with FT-1 you also only get spot, single cell focusing mode

BUT the above two considerations should not be applicable to the 70 300mm CX ………….what I am saying is your image above suffers from the extremes of light and shadow because of the strong light
Agree with all your points Bill.
 
40 full size BIF shots at 20fps with continuous focusing of heron flying from grass to log with V3 and 70-300CX.
Downsized and converted to video clip.
First in real time about 20fps.
Second slowed down to 2fps.
This is the same log as before but from a different side.
Seems herons like this log so a good place for me to hang out.
Also, here is the perched heron after the short flight.

p339455944-5.jpg
 
LOL. Fortunately not, otherwise I would have a few grand invested in a 400/2.8 or 500/4 or heaven forbid a 600 something. This bird stuff is damn addictive.

You are telling me - look at the "bird" thread - after a while you start looking at US$10k to US$20k+ lenses ……… but they are "works of art" - I have the 300mm f2.8 VR - it weighs a "ton" but I just love the lens …….. you can do "almost anything" with a 300mm lens ……. incredibly versatile
 
LOL. Fortunately not, otherwise I would have a few grand invested in a 400/2.8 or 500/4 or heaven forbid a 600 something. This bird stuff is damn addictive.

Joe,

With results like these, why would you want to invest a few kilobucks in bigger, heavier lenses? I really don't see how the latest shot -- with the bird looking right at the lens -- could be improved.

Well done!

Cheers, Jock
 
Joe, these are great shots.

I've been shooting birds on and off for about 3 years using a GH-2 and the 100-300 Lumix lens which has a 200-600mm equivalent range.

In good light the results, like yours are great but also like the Nikon I am restricted at the upper end by the noise from the sensor which creeps in at iso800 and destroys finer detail.

That said - and I'm talking internet here - this camera and my GH-2 are incredibly capable for a fraction of the cost and weight of the more specialised kit using DSLRs.

I have toyed with the idea of getting a s/h D7100 and a 300mm or 400mm lens but really unless one is a dedicated 'twitcher' I think you can have fun and get surprisingly good and satisfying results with the kit we own.

In fact, the GH-2 and 100-300 are getting a bit long in the tooth and having seen these captures it certainly makes me think about acquiring the V3 and 70-300.

Thanks for sharing!

LouisB
 
Thanks LouisB,
Having never photographed birds in the past, I find the V3 and 70-300cx a very fun combo. Experimenting with birds, macro, street, beach and whatever catches my fancy. Still waiting for the big waves to hit the north shore here in Hawaii and then the real fun begins. For serious birders there is no substitute for super long primes and full frame or DX cameras. But for the rest of us your GH-2 kit or my Nikon 1 kit make for fun photography. Thanks.
Joe
 
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