Micro 4/3 LX100 - lens hood or step-up ring

JTshooter

New Member
New to forum today after buying an LX100 recently.
I have always used lens hoods on every lens I've owned over the last 35yrs and now trying to decide whether a lens hood — which I've read can cause vignetting — or a 43mm to 52mm set-up ring.

I found the JJC LH-43LX100 lens hood on ebay ( JJC LH-43LX100 Lens Hood for Panasonic Lumix DMC-LX100 Camera | eBay ) and after an inquiry to the company got this assurance from them regarding vignetting, "[the] LH-43LX100 adopts a vented design which allows more light to enter the image and causes no vignetting."

The step-up ring was recommended by a LX100 user on another website.

I would appreciate any and all feedback from people using or who have tried either or both of these options.
Thank you all in advance and I look forward to being a member of this forum.
JTshooter
 
The LX100 can indeed flare quite violently (for want of another word), so if you're set on adding a lens hood, that's probably at least partly helpful. If you don't use the auto-lenscap, you should be able to use a screw-in model, but you'll be limited to shallow hoods because of the 24mm short end of the lens. As far as I can see, the JJC model you linked to should qualify, but honestly, the "vented" comment is a bit phoney - if the outer edges of the hood block the light in the corners or on the edges of the image field, you'll get vignetting anyhow, just maybe not as pronounced ... (photon physics won't help a lot in this case ;)). But at that asking price, I'd risk it if I were you ...

I doubt that the step-up ring will be of much use - I own a couple, and most of them are shallow in order *not* to intrude into the image in any way; of course, if you want to use existing filters, that's a totally different story, but as a replacement for a lens hood, I'd pass ...

M.
 
I've owned two copies of the LX100, I always used the Panasonic auto cap instead of the JJC version. I preferred the smaller size (diameter). Why "owned" two copies? I could just never get past the power zoom. I've tried with two of these, an RX100, and an old FX35 some years back.

But otherwise the LX100 features and controls are great, if only they'd used a Fuji like X10/20/30 like manual zoom.
 
Thanks MomMind, appreciate your insight. I also thought the venting comment was a stretch. I"ll give it a shot as I do like the idea that I could add a 58mm Hoya polarizing filter to it.
What would you think about adding black electrical tape or contact paper (something cosmetically pleasing but effective) over JJC's open vents to eliminate any flare, or would that bring back the vignetting problem?
Thanks.
 
I've owned two copies of the LX100, I always used the Panasonic auto cap instead of the JJC version. I preferred the smaller size (diameter). Why "owned" two copies? I could just never get past the power zoom. I've tried with two of these, an RX100, and an old FX35 some years back.

But otherwise the LX100 features and controls are great, if only they'd used a Fuji like X10/20/30 like manual zoom.
Thanks davidzvi.
 
Also Moomind, I have a Hoya 43mm clear filter on the lens now. If I put on the JJC auto lens hood and when the lens is open to 24 mm would the three, let's call them aperture blades of the lens cap, clear my 43mm filter threads so that I could screw on a 43mm Hoya polarizing lens.
I just realized, I may have forgotten to ask if the JJC auto cap will even work over the 43mm clear Hoya.
Thanks for you patience.
 
I’ve been using the LX100 for over a year in a wide variety of settings from in-home macros to cliff-top vistas and I have not encountered flair issues. I don’t use a lens hood nor filters. However, I tend to not shoot when the sun is in the viewfinder. Found that this was much more of an issue when I was shooting with film and Nikon equipment.
 
I’ve been using the LX100 for over a year in a wide variety of settings from in-home macros to cliff-top vistas and I have not encountered flair issues. I don’t use a lens hood nor filters. However, I tend to not shoot when the sun is in the viewfinder. Found that this was much more of an issue when I was shooting with film and Nikon equipment.
Thanks Les, appreciate your input. I also noticed flare with my Nikkor lens and film so always used hoods.
 
I’ve been using the LX100 for over a year in a wide variety of settings from in-home macros to cliff-top vistas and I have not encountered flair issues. I don’t use a lens hood nor filters. However, I tend to not shoot when the sun is in the viewfinder. Found that this was much more of an issue when I was shooting with film and Nikon equipment.

Likewise... I have not found the LX100 particularly prone to flare. Yes, it can be provoked, of course - but even then, it isn't too bad. I have certainly used cameras/lenses which are more prone to flare than the LX100, when used in difficult conditions.
 
Likewise... I have not found the LX100 particularly prone to flare. Yes, it can be provoked, of course - but even then, it isn't too bad. I have certainly used cameras/lenses which are more prone to flare than the LX100, when used in difficult conditions.
I would agree that the camera isn't exceptionally *prone* to flare, but if it does (and I've had it happen), than it's a colour and corona mess that pretty certainly ruins the shot. That said, I don't use any filters or a hood because I value the auto-lenscap higher. For a zoom compact, the LX100 actually deploys reasonably quickly, but because the lens is pushed out of the body on switch-on, it's unwise to remove the lenscap while that happens. On other cameras lenses, I often remove the lenscap *while* switching them on - it's a two-handed, one-purpose movement. It may seem trivial, but the normal cap can cost you shots on the LX100 ...

re. the power zoom issue @davidzvi mentioned: It's definitely something to consider. One of the reasons I sometimes reach for the old and battered E-PM1 instead of the much more sophisticated LX100 with its EVF and more pleasant handling is that the tiny Panasonic 12-32mm lives on the E-PM1 - and even though my copy hasn't what you'd call "smooth" zoom action, it's quicker and more precise to use (and preset!) than the power zoom. Plus results from this little kit lens are pretty impressive. Of course, the lens on the LX100 has its fast maximum aperture going for it ... and I like the rendering quite a bit, even if it can be a bit gritty at times.

M.
 
I would agree that the camera isn't exceptionally *prone* to flare, but if it does (and I've had it happen), than it's a colour and corona mess that pretty certainly ruins the shot

I must say that I haven't had this happen - presumably, I haven't provoked it quite as much as you have! ;)
 
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